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turquois dwarf Wrote:
could you put the file with the counters on this thread or would there be copywrite/file size problems?

I'm honestly not sure, but I assume there would be, and I don't want to cause any fuss with being seen as distributing copywritten stuff via the forum.

I know there are a few sources for getting your hands on these. The stock answer people give is eBay (which is as unhelpful to type as it is to read).  While I would never suggest you do such a thing, and I don't think anyone on the forum would offer assistance in this regard, ... I've been told WHQ is floating around on some of the file sharing networks.  Of course the scanned quality isn't likely to be as good as the original and there are often pages missing in such things, so it's no substitute for the original (of which I have 2.5 copies).

One final aside (a little off-topic)... In regards to Games-Workshop and distributing such material... The Sheriff and the Frog, a seller on eBay, has been selling re-printed copies of Warhammer Quest articles from White Dwarf for about 7-8 years now with apparently no ill-effects.  He also has high-res scans of some of the expansions and well as some of the more expensive Talisman and HeroQuest expansions, again, the odd one he sells is an original, but more often than not he splits up sets and sells miniatures with re-printed booklets.  If you look at some of his auctions you'll see that a lot of his stuff is incomplete, mostly he has reprinted copies of books, rules, cards and tiles, but there will be 1/3'rd or fewer of the minis... and no box.  Plus there's no real pics of what you are buying.  Plus he'll buy something like the Pit Fighter mini, print the character card, rules, etc, and sell it as complete, but note that there's no box... but he'll still easily get double what he paid to get just the mini.  How he manages to sell re-prints of copywritten stuff without being hunted by GW legal dept is beyond me...  Oh, and don't buy from him. He charges an arm and a leg for what he offers and tacks on exorbitant handling charges. I've had the hate on for him since 2001.  here's a good example of an item selling for $9 which is just a single re-printed card and totally misrepresentative photo. But he still gives himself a personal 9.5/10 rating.  I have fantasies of seeing him out and about in Quebec one day and punching him in the chops.


Forgot to post the finished Sewer tile from White Dwarf:

Here's a quick & rough example of the support pieces for getting some quick height built up off the table:

(The door is from the boardgame Dark World)

The last thing I'm working on that's going to be a longer term project are themed Warhammer Quest doorways to go with each Objective Room tile.

Here's the plan for the Tomb Chamber:

The miniature on either side of the doorway, in case it's not clear, is a kneeling/praying paladin, from Reaper Miniatures. I'm planning to paint them up as statues....

Some of the older minis from games like Dark World, HeroQuest, and especially Battle Masters have somewhat static poses, but that means they make stellar statues.  
Here's a good example that would make a decent statue, a Halberdier from Battle Masters:

Battle Masters goes for pretty cheap on eBay and has a ton of stuff.  I think the Battle Masters Goblin Wolf riders might also be useful for Hobgoblin conversions in a pinch, at least the wolves are usable.

Once I start on my Hobgoblins I'll see how it goes.  The Battle Masters plastic for the green skins (green plastic) and some of the Empire troops like the Crossbowmen (red plastic) is pretty brittle and things have a habit of cracking or snapping where you don't want them to while you cut (at least mine do),  This is in contrast to the grey-coloured Empire Halberdiers that came with that set, which are about the same consistency as the BFSP plastics.. Oh, and all of the horses that come with that game could possibly be converted into shorter-legged bull centaurs, although I haven't tried this!

I believe Vexxus' Chaos Dwarf Molten Stronghold uses the Battle Masters tower... very nicely done.  Battle Masters auctions usually have these towers missing as keeners usually pilfer it for other projects Wink


turquois dwarf Wrote:
those pillars work realy well. the themed door is also very nice. are you using normal games workshop paints for these? it seems a large area to cover with such a small pot

No, there's no way I could afford to paint these with GW paints.  I use acrylic paints from a craft store.  They aren't the cheapest ones, but not the most expensive either.  From what I've found the cheap ones have a lot less pigment in them and when you mix a few colours together everything starts to look grey-ish and you lose contrast.  With higher pigment you can do a lot more mixing.  The GW paints have a lot of pigment in them, which is why colours can still look striking on a small scale.

My acrylics cost maybe $30 all together. I got a half-liter bottle of black for $6, and all my other colours were around $1.50-$2.50 for ~60mL. For the entire project (so all of the board sections) I only had to go back and buy one additional bottle, which was another 60mL bottle of white.  Oh, and the brand of acrylics I use is "Craft Smart" with I believe is a Michael's store exclusive, but I could be wrong.  I also have some "Americana" brand colours for doing lava.  Toward the end of the project I picked up a few others from Michael's craft store that were on sale. They are "Apple Barrel" brand acrylics, 60mL of paint for ~$0.75 each... but I'm really not happy with them at all, much less pigment in them and I don't think I'll end up using them again.  Even mixing the Apple Barrel white with other colours like green or brown made everything grey.

In general anything that's on the scale of the "dungeon" such as board sections and stairways I use acrylics.  Anything smaller than that, including doorways, barrels, weapons, skulls, etc all get painted with GW paints so that the colour and detail is maintained.  Painting things on a miniature scale (something the size of a 25mm miniature) with acrylics will just end up looking washed out and dull.  In my experience anyway.


turquois dwarf Wrote:
I will have to look for these paints. At first I tried using poster paints for terrain! this was a very bad idea because if you tried to hilight something the paint wets the previouse layer and they all blend together to make one couler. i had to paint a tower i undercoated black "white" just to get a dark grey! Happy

I keep a high speed floor fan propped up next to my dungeon painting area so that each layer dries as fast as possible.  This way you can apply the next layer of paint as soon as possible... but you're right - you have to wait for coats to dry before applying successive coats, (especially if you're dry brushing).

I paint the black under-coat.  Let is dry completely.  Apply a second black coat.  Let it dry completely.  Start with a dark base coat of what ever the main colour is.  Let it dry completely.  Add the next lighter shade.  ... you guessed it, let it dry completely.  And keep going until I've painted up to just the high lights.

taedae Wrote:
do you like these paints? do you use them on minis also?

I like the paints fine, for terrain... never for minis.  I tried painting a few barrels with some of the brown acrylics and there just isn't enough colour to make things stand out.  

For sure go with miniature paints (which ever brand you like) for anything smaller than "terrain/dungeon" scale objects.  BTW: I'd considering most war machines miniatures, so I wouldn't use acrylics on them either... but I would consider mixing a tiny volume of acrylic with something like Games Workshop paints for a BIG war machine... if nothing else it makes the better quality GW paints last longer on big projects.

Hope that helps.

Time to crank 'er up a notch.

This is a tile from White Dwarf #201.  From what I gather the same artist who did the tile design for Warhammer Quest also did the artwork for this tile.  It was used in a Dwarfs vs. Chaos Dwarfs battle scenario.  I only have up to WD#196, so I've had to rely on others to relay the details.  Apparently there was a side-objective to the battle that required the Dwarfs to make it to this room and destroy the anvil.

I give you... The Furnace of Hashut

And I'm going to post real WIP photos (as opposed to staged ones like before) of its creation over the next few days... or how ever long it takes, time permitting.

Here's where we start: The Furnace of Hashut tile, 1" thick extruded insulation foam, X-acto blades of various sizes, a ruler, and something to mark measurements on the foam with.

Start out by measuring for the dimensions you want and cut the basic outline accordingly.  The Furnace of Hashut tile is 4x5 squares, and I've chosen to make my squares 1 3/4" (~45mm) which is 50% larger than the original size.  This means the foam will be 7"x8 1/2".  We use metric here in Canada, so all this inches business messes me up, but I digress.

Next stage is to mark off with a pencil or pen where your squares are going to be. My squares are 1 3/4" so I mark at that interval.  Note that I mark both the top edge and bottom edge (of the face-up side), but just the top edge is shown in the picture.

Now you can line up your ruler with your marks and you're ready to cut.
Important: 1) Use a fresh sharp blade, otherwise you will tear the foam instead of cut it.
2) Align the ruler slightly off-centre with your mark, we want the gap between the tiles centred on your measurements, not the edge of a particular row of tiles.
3) Make your cuts on a ~45 degree angle from the top surface, don't cut straight down!

With the first line cut, flip the board over and re-position the ruler again slightly off-centre from where you measured your width of the square, again cutting at ~45 degree angle from the surface.

When you're done you should have a V-shapred trough running top to bottom:

Repeat all the way along.  Note that in this picture the centre lines that I cut chewed up the foam pretty badly, despite having a fresh, sharp blade.  This happens from time to time.  I think it happens most often if the foam has been compressed (like someone at the warehouse stepping on it before you buy it, or someone dropping something on it).  Anyway, you'll see we can still work with this.

Now we repeat the process along the other edge, making our grid pattern.

So that's the basic layout.
Now looking at our tile:

I've decided I want the 2x2 section in the centre to be completely gone.  I don't like cutting big things like this on funny angles to try and make clever depth perception tricks like the 2D tile.  We're working in 3D, so there's no need, first of all, and second, they just never work the way you want.

So we start cutting out the 2x2 space in the middle.  No ruler needed as you can follow the bottom of the V-shaped trough easily enough.  I get it started with my sharper tool:

Then switch to the big gun:

With all that done you can stop cutting for a little bit and start cleaning up some of your edges by sanding them down and making it look more smooth.  You'll want to do this with the inside edges of the 2x2 section that was cut out as well. Note: Just a word of warning, go slow and don't use too much pressure, and don't fold the sand paper in half and sand with the folded edge ... unless you want to sand harsh grooves into the edges of things.  Slow even and long passes across will have it looking MUCH better.

Now we can start carving up the surface details.  The area shown doesn't have to look pretty.  We're going to be pouring in acrylic paint mixed with PVC glue later on to represent the lava, and nobody will ever see the bottom of what you've cut out.  Just don't cut too deep or you're going to need to pour a lot more into it to fill it close to the surface of the tiles (but more on that at a much later stage)...

After some more carving, this is what we end up with:

Stay tuned for more updates on the furnace... or better yet, start your own piece!  It'll make a great setting for a diorama on its own Wink

The Furnace of Hashut (continued)...

With the space for the pit cut out we need a new flat bottom to go in.  I use Plasticard for this (thin sheets of plastic, sold at most hobby places).
You want the plastic sheet larger than the opening so that you can glue it on easily.  

Here's what it should look like - Note that this is not yet glued!  The plastic won't hold the acrylic paints, so you'll need to spray it with primer separately.  Depending on your brand of primer, it will likely dissolve your foam if you spray it on directly.  Although you can spray primer over a foam board that has had a few under coats of acrylic paint, I still wouldn't do it. One small area that's a little thin on paint and the solvent in the primer will just eat away at your board section like the acid in the Alien movies.  (As an aside, I generally use The Armory Spray Primer, from Dork Tower... the black colour one).  I've sprayed it directly on foam intentionally while priming plastic pieces and it looks like it could work as a good foam primer, albeit an expensive one!).

Starting the first undercoat of black to prime the board.  I start by applying a liberal amount of black into all the cracks and spaces (note that everything else you see on top of the board has been glued down with a hot glue gun).

*The Anvil above is just a hand-cut piece of foam.  I cut the outside shape on the anvil first, then cut it in half in the zig-zag pattern indicated on the tile.

Then finish applying the first coat.  If you're impatient like me, you'll want a fan beside your painting area so that you can turn it on and have your pieces dry faster...

After the second undercoat of black (including applying more paint to all the cracks and board edges) you should have something that looks like this.  Oh, and the base of the anvil doesn't look like it's coated well, but that's because there is a lot of exposed glue from the hot glue gun I used to join all the foam bits.  This actually doesn't matter because the light colour you can see will eventually be covered over by lava (paint mixed with PVC glue).  You can also see I started two holes for the support posts of the pulley and winch system.

After all the paint is dry the bottom of the pit/furnace is primed and then glued down.  I use a continuous bead of glue all the way around the opening on the bottom of the board, as well as an extra continuous bead around the edge of the piece.  The reason for this is that later on we'll pour a mix of paint and PVC glue into the pit to get a smoother texture for the furnace bottom, but if there are any gaps, then chances are the glue and paint will leak out the bottom, and there will be some bad words.

Now it's time to start thinking of all the extra bits and pieces...

The most obvious thing on the tile, besides the anvil, is the pulley and winch system setup over the furnace/pit.  I used large paper sticks, like the kind used for making homemade suckers.  I cut two shorter pieces for the support posts and shortened one to use at the top part of the pulley.  You can see in the photo after this one that there's more detail to the winch system, including a hand-spun winch with gears for turning the pulley.  We'll get to that in a later post.

Another bit of trim for the tile is this great item, I'm guessing it's used to grasp hot things as they come out of the furnace, and it looks suitably 'Chaos Dwarfy'.  I'm going to use the standard bearer's arm from a Chaos Warrior and some spare scraps of plasticard.

After some clipping and trimming and gluing I ended up with the piece below.  The tan-coloured piece in the middle fit nicely with the one drawn on the tile.  It's a resin recast of the central bit of a candlestick from HeroQuest (from the Sorcerer's Bench).  I also carefully shaved off the small skull from the back of the standard bearer's glove to attach to where the bolt of the tool would go.  It's not exact, but darn if it isn't close....  close enough for me.  You can hide a lot with a good paint job too Takes Hat off

Lastly, for today, are the flaming braziers on either side of the anvil.
I started with two small hollow, cylindrical tubes, held down by some two-sided tape.  Actually it's regular packing tape rolled inside out.  This allows the pieces to gently stick so that they don't slide around, but not stick so hard that you might ruin your work.

As usual, I like a quick and easy solution, so I'm using the thick and formable "Water Effects" product.  It looks like a super thick PVC glue, except it's hardly sticky at all and doesn't run.

Using the tip of a toothpick you can just dip it into the material slightly and pull up, and it drags some of the material with it.  For flames I start in the middle, generally pulling straight up, but not quite, there needs to be a little variation in there.  

Then you can start working your way toward the outer edge.  When you get to the outside you might want to start drawing the material upwards at a bit of an angle, like 20-30 degrees, but no longer straight up.

As you're working the material will build up a little on the tip of the toothpick and your little whisps of flame won't pull up quite as far, instead you'll just be mashing a glob of the stuff into another glob.  So wipe off the tip after you get 1/3 or 1/2 way through.

And here's the second one finished as well.

That's it for now.  The Water Effects material takes at least 24 hours to dry, and you can't rush it.  I usually wait 30+ hours, as I don't like repeating things when I've messed them up.  It shrinks a tiny bit as it dries I find, and if you spray it with primer too soon the primer will look warped and ripply.  

As for the rest of the trimmings in the next stage: Of course the chains and skulls on the tile will be the easy bits so there's no point showing them yet. The hammer next to the anvil will be easy as well as I could either cut a piece of sprue into the head of the hammer, or better still, just take one of the hammer weapons from the dwarf warrior in BFSP, or modify one of the current Chaos Warrior weapons (which I also have a few of).

I also have some ideas for the pulley and winch system as I don't want to just put the top bar across the two supports and just leave it at that.

So, more updates to come... time permitting.


clam Wrote:
The Chaos Dwarf icon in the floor - is that done with a knife, too?

If you mean the face that's in front of the anvil, then yes.  I just used the same technique I used for carving the V-shaped spaces between the tiles, except in the case of the icon I just did it free hand... and it was done without much thought.  If I were to do it again (and better) I'd probably draw a grid of squares on those two tiles in pencil and then make the same grid overlaid on the image in Photoshop on my laptop, then just go one at a time from one small square to the next, copying the pattern from the whole grid until I had it matching the original.  (Photobucket is down for maintenance, so see the attached image, sorry for the blur).


The rain is thundering down here tonight (started before supper time), so there won't be any WIP photos on the Furnace of Hashut until later, after I can spray some primer on some bits.

In the interim, I've fianlly started on a couple of the last official Warhammer Quest tiles, those of the Pits and Traps expansion. Very difficult to come by, but there are some pdfs floating around with scans.

Here's the basic layout of the Bridge of Despair

And the Crossroads of Doom has been carved up and the black under coat is drying right now...

I decided I wanted the rotating platform for the Crossroads of Doom to be a little more "fixed", so that the rotating piece doesn't just float freely (as it usually slides around and off the 2D tile).  To address this I used a small cylindical tube glued in the centre of the rotating piece. I also cut a hole into the board in the centre of where the piece is set to rotate.  It's important to measure twice, glue and cut once Wink

Luckily I did it right and it does rotate easily and still lines up exactly with the edges of the adjacent tiles.  I haven't decided if I want a partial wall on the back and sides so it feels enclosed.

On the actual rotating tile section there are levers which are used to control rotation of the piece.

These would be easy enough to do with pins or rods, but I wanted to go with something a little more interesting and "dungeony" for them.  I decided to use a bit from the Skaven Clan Rats. Cutting off the arm and shaving off the fingers it looks a little better.

Once these boards are done the last tile to finish to have all of them will be the 2x2 spiral staircase tile... which I think I finally have some ideas for making it Cheers!

Don't worry about Hashut's Furnace, it's coming!
First things first - WIP on the Pits and Traps tiles...

The Crossroads of Doom undercoated x2

I decided the rotating platform needed walls.  Seeing as the board is 3D, there's no reason not to, although in general I've tried to shy away from putting in walls unless it's necessary (like the Fighting Pit Objective room).  In this case the rotating platform is only accessible from one side, hence the need to rotate.  In 3D, without the wall, it just looked incomplete.  The wall isn't overly done, but it's enough to get the point across while still allow easy access to the squares for moving units around.

The rotation works better than I planned.  Super smooth, no sticking or catching and goes with just one finger.

Because the "wall" on the rotating platform is thin plasticard (more on that in a moment) it will look very flat and uninteresting, even once painted.  I just used the old trick of putting on a couple of faux-bricks so that there is the implied surface of a brick wall when it's complete.  To do that I cut extra rectangles of thin plasticard and cut the corners off (looks better this way).

A few of these are on the outside as well as the inside of the wall.

As for the Bridge of Despair, all I can say is: it's coming along.  The plasticard base and walls have been carefully glued using a glue gun so that it's free-standing, and the rest of the board sections have just had their second undercoat of black applied (which is drying).  Haven't built the bridge section yet, but that's easy stuff.  Here's what it looked like a few hours ago:

This is the work area with the fan setup to speed drying which I've mentioned before.  This is important later for dry brushing too as you have to let things dry in between coats of paint.

A brief note on the plasticard I'm using:
I buy them in 12"x24" sheets, which is pretty standard.  For the rounded wall and the "bricks" above, that's plasticard which is 0.02 thickness (so relatively thin, actually, and easily bent).
For floor tiles, such as the rotating platform base, and the four tiles on top of that, I used 0.03 thickness pieces.  That extra bit does make quite a bit of difference in terms of rigidity.  

The walls for the bridge of despair are also 0.03 thickness, just enough that they won't flex easily at their current size.  Of course larger pieces will flex more easily than these smaller ones.  

For the base of the bridge of despair board I used 0.06 thickness.  It's very rigid, which is what I want for such a large piece, and also because it's the base of a larger board that's going to have foam glued down on it, I don't want there to be any tendency to flex or bend.  Although these will be sitting on a table or in a box, and there's not a lot of opportunity to bed, moving them around during play can put a lot of  stress on them, and a thin base will probably mean it's going to come apart.  My previous Fire Chasm Objective room and the Sewer tile both used 0.06 thickness as well.  The furnace of Hashut only used 0.03 thickness because we don't need the support.

So now, back to The Furnace of Hashut...

I find after getting the foam cut and everything organized up to the priming and undercoat painting stage things can slow down.  Preparing all of the extra bits and trim takes a while.  Some times several days.

Here's the dried Water Effects flames I made... the whisps of flame aren't big (you can make them bigger initially or add more at this stage and work it up higher).  The tile doesn't imply large flames, and is much more reminiscent of hot coals anyway...

And the same bits primed.

Here's one of the support posts, I'm using a hand crank from the Dwarf Miners, it's supposed to go on a drilling machine.  The "gears" are from a hardware store.  I just browsed through their bins of small washers and nuts and bolts.  I'm not sure what these are called exactly, but I believe you use them like washers, when you tighten they should give some grip as the 'teeth' are slightly angled.  Anyway, they made good gears.

So the whole thing isn't going to be exact, but I got annoyed with the pulley/winch system, especially the separate pulley wheel that's on the left in the original picture, I couldn't see what purpose it served, and for all the extra work it would take to cut it I didn't feel it added anything to the piece at this stage.  If I put much more work into this I'd be close to something that would actually work to turn Wink

Not sure I'm going to try putting the faces onto the pillars, unless perhaps it's at the painting stage.  The pillars are cork and won't be as easy to make a chiseled pattern in like the floor.

OK, so I was happy with where things were going with this project, and then I saw this guy's modular Mordheim setup that makes me want to pack it all in...

BvB: Wolfgangs Mortheim

Seriously... I mean... seriously!  Take the time to scroll through (don't miss the arrows at the bottom of the thumbnails for more pics).  This is nuts.  A lot of it is foam, but still, look at it. He pwns the foam! And I thought publishing was going slowly just with my little projects here Tongue Wink  I'd need a wealthy benefactor, no other job and we'd probably need to postpone baby #2 indefinitely to seriously tackle something like this.  It'd be my luck that after starting a project like this GW would discontinue Mordheim and I'd lose all interest Wink

I've never played Mordheim, but from what I've seen and read you can't play it solo... the guys that I game with have zero interest in branching out to try anything else besides Warhammer Quest, and will only game with my stuff anyway, not buy their own (well, one guy has 3-4 heroes, but that's it out of the group).

Anyway, this is my ode to what it might be like to meet up with some gamers to play Mordheim for the first time with this setup:

Lock eyes from across the room
Fondle my dice as the big nerds loom
Shake their hands, skip the names
I'm only here to play some games
Make our way to the basement (where we're allowed)
I can't f***ing believe one guy is wearing a shroud
Step a little away, the nerd meter is high
Clap my eyes on the games table and the angels cry

It takes forever to start, one won't shut up, another's a bore
Two others are still paining, what could be more
A whole night of gaming, what we've got in store
Finally we start rolling some dice and prepare for war
And I j*zz in my pants

... you get the idea Wink

Pits and Traps tile Bridge of Despair is undercoated x2:

Laying out the bridge (under-support is thick plasticard).  Here I'm just lining things up based on the 2x4 block of tiles. Note the hole that's been cut as well as the plastic cylinder that will act as the pivot point.

Using the hot glue gun to get a quick piece with things set in the right spots I can test it out.  Things line up more or less.

Final touches is to use the stylus/embossing tool (see earlier post) to make indentations into the plastic framework so that later it will look like rivets underneath.  Now adding some wood it's looking more like the Bridge of Despair.  Note that I didn't care to reproduce the bridge exactly, I just went for a similar effect.  I've also decided that the amount of rope that's implied in the original for lashing everything together isn't worth the effort on this piece... partly because I know this board section sees play only seldomly Wink

Back to The Furnace of Hashut

Final designs on the Anvil of Doom (I believe it's called... I may be wrong).

Plastic on the anvil primed...

... and finally ready for some paint

Changed my mind about the pillars for the Furnace of Hashut board section...  There's no excuse for not carving up the cork:


Starting out with the base coat (yes, there is some blue in the tile, so we're starting with a low-contrast blue mixed with black).

And dry brushing

First layer (still lots of black showing)

More blue (next lighter layer)

Next lighter, again

Starting to mix in some white.

It's important if you start mixing white in early (I think this is early, I really should have done lighter with just less of the dark mixed with the light blue) that you start dry brushing with a very dry dry brush and very little pressure on the brush. One trick for starting dry brushing is to start on some part that's not important. I always do the edges of the board section as opposed to the surface.

Lighter still (lots of white)

But still using light brush strokes so that the white isn't over-powering

If you look at the original tile there's almost a spackled pattern of colour on the floor.  To do this I'm using an old toothbrush.  You just load up a decent amount of paint (not too much or drips will land on your work) and then flick the bristles.  

I sprayed the medium-intensity colour around most of the surface, only encroaching a tiny bit on the lightest spots, then I went back to the darkest base colour and put it in around the border of the surface.  The effect is that transitions and the whole colour surface looks smoother.  The real tile also now has that spackled pattern, not sure it shows up well here.

That's all for now. Need to think about what I want to work on next.
Glad some people are still getting something out of the WIP...

Just a quick update which will have to tide people over for a while.  Grant writing season started early this year... the chance of doubling my salary for the next 3 years takes priority Wink

Dry brushing the insides of the lava pit. I went from dark red to light red and then a very small amount of orange just half way up from the bottom.

For any of the liquids like lava or water I mix acrylic paint with PVC glue (aka white glue), but I also mix some of the Water Effects stuff into it. I don't add much, but just enough to make it more viscous. This way I can almost paint the lava on.

Doing it this way - It does even itself out and settle a little, but it's viscous enough that it can't break surface tension and spread out to places you haven't painted it on.  This let me paint the lava into the channel at the bottom corner of the board without needing to put putty there to stop it.

Now there's no way I'm going to try to duplicate someone's random lava pattern so I just did my own thing. The lava around the Anvil of Doom is almost totally yellow on the reference tile, so I didn't start with nearly as dark a base coat, and went with orange instead.

Before I make any more changes or alterations to the lava I'm going to let it dry. FYI: I find 24 hours isn't enough a lot of the time either... so if you try this don't stick your finger into it to test it the next day thinking you gave it long enough Tongue  ... and don't ask how I know that Mad

Pits and Traps tiles...

Painted Crossroads of Doom. Still have to finish adding chains, slime to one corner, moss, etc.

With the rotating platform section

Closeup of the rotating platform.  Still have to finish painting the levers inside.

Painted Bridge of Despair (minus the bridge)

With the rotating bridge section.

I'm not so happy about the lines that show up on these tiles. Unfortunately on these ones the foam that I bought has these lines in it. It's a very subtle indentation, and it wasn't noticeable until I started painting them.  I've done a lot of stippling between the lines with lighter colours to make them less noticeable.... and for sure the photos taken really make them stand out more than they do IRL.  Not sure if there's some kind of edge-detection or post processing the camera is doing with the images... but it really makes them stand out.  The bottom of the foam has worse lines. That's something from the manufacturer this time or something that happened during shipping I'd guess.  It's a real pain in the @$$ in any case.

More to come on the Furnace of Hashut later...

Brief update.

Rotating room section for the Crossroads of Doom is done

Furnace of Hashut (nearing completion)

Finished off the Anvil of Doom as well as the tongs for grabbing things from the forge... although they look more like an implement of torture used by some nasty Gaoler (on the floor, middle left).

Just need to finish the leather straps on the handles of the other implements that sit by the anvil and I'm done (for now, I think).


clam Wrote:
I really don't know what to say anymore Takes Hat off Takes Hat off

I'm stunned by your talent, your ardour and your pace.

So what's next ? anything you haven't done so far?

The only tile left I haven't done is the "Into the Dark" spiral staircase from White Dwarf 192.  I believe it's just referred to as "Into the Dark".  

Of course I want this to look good and reasonable so I've been avoiding it, but it's the very last one.  After that I may embark on a WHQ departure of sorts.  I've been thinking about it longer than these tiles.  The departure is going to be the side of a mountain with a WHQ doorway/dungeon entrance that does double-duty with small trays for holding the treasure, dungeon and event cards during play.  May never happen though.

Of course the other thing I may get the itch to re-visit is some WH40K terrain - specifically modeled on the new Space Hulk sections.  I've seen loads of SH stuff out there, and I gave it a shot over a year ago. It was my first foray into working with foam, and although it turned out alight, I knew I could do better if I took my time.  

I gave all of these away to a local games store about a month ago because I figured if I wanted to use them I'd put in a real effort and do a better job. These require very little exposed foam, the foam is basically there just to give it a basic shape, really everything needs to be plasticard and other material (which significantly adds to the cost as well as creation time).

wallacer Wrote:
Maybe the lava could look a bit "glowier" though?  Not really sure how to achieve that... Perhaps put a layer of artificial water over the top of it?

I agree, it does need to be glowier.  Someone on another forum suggested something that would entail a whole re-make of the tile, which I may do at some point as the foam work was kind of rushed and the carved face in the floor wasn't done with care (it's a little disproportionate to the original).... he suggested having something partially see-through with red LEDs underneath.  I think it's a stellar idea, and I could reasonably do it with the kind of resin that's usually used for modeling water in things like model train terrain.  I think having a thin & transparent layer of resin on the surface that's thinly painted underneath with white, then yellow, then orange and then red, and lit with multiple diffuse-light red and white LEDs it could look amazing.  Diffuse LEDs, as opposed to focused ones like in LED flashlights, can be bought for pennies a-piece.
I've seen the transparent resin back-painted before and it looks quite good.


Well.... Who's up for starting over?!? Wink

wallacer Wrote:

NIcodemus Wrote:
he suggested having something partially see-through with red LEDs underneath. 

Would look amazing, for sure.  I doubt if I could pull it off but I have no doubt you could.

I'm just not sure I have the patience Wink  I tried working with E-Z Water, which comes as beats of resin that you heat up and pour, but damn if it's not a pain in the @$$ to work with, I have no idea what the problem is but it re-solidifies way too fast to be useful it seems, and I've had to heat it up well past where the instructions say (between 71-82 deg. C) to get it to even melt.  30 minutes at ~100C and it still was only starting to get sticky but not melt... something is definately amiss!  Most of it solidified on contact so that each clear glob had a very well defined boundary between the other globs, none of it was smooth and it just looked like crap. The rest solidified mid-pour.  And the heat gun to smooth it out anywhere near the foam is just a bad idea anyway.

I did manage to make a little tray the size of the square opening and pre-poured a square layer of resin to act as a transparent surface that I could underpaint, but the edges aren't quite flush with the foam... and I've lost patience with it.  I don't know how the model railroaders do it, even after reading guides and tutorials, I just don't get how this stuff could be useful, especially for large projects.  Maybe if my surface area was made of plaster first so it could withstand some heat from the heatgun, then maybe, but it still seems to need a ridiculous amount of heat that I think the plaster would heat well beyond what the foam could tolerate anyway.  

So the long and the short of it (at the moment) is it's not worth my time or effort Mad

Here's the do-over so far, stealing parts from the old board:

Once the lava dries I've got more dry brushing to do, including adding some highlights to the inside of the pit.  I think Slev's idea is worth trying, that or maybe clear gloss Krylon spray.  I didn't do that with my other lava tiles because the patterns were too irregular to not get gloss on the parts that are supposed to be stone... in this case I think I can just do some masking ahead of time, spray gloss on the lava and then mask the lava and spray matte on the rest... we'll see.


Finally re-took some slightly better photos of some of the board sections.

Lair of the Orc Lord - Shaman's Den

Lair of the Orc Lord - Collapsed Passage

Lair of the Orc Lord - Gorgut's Lair

White Dwarf #192 - Dead End (with removable rubble)

White Dwarf #185 - The Gaol

White Dwarf #204 - Sewer (showing again, better pic)

Catacombs of Terror - Flames of Khazla (2x2) and Hall of Death (4x5)

WHQ Core Game - Circle of Power

WHQ Core Game - Well of Doom

WHQ Core Game - Dungeon Cell

WHQ Core Game - Torture Chamber

WHQ Core Game - Monsters' Lair

(edit: missed one WHQ Core Game - Guard Room

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